Shibori refers to the various Japanese methods of tie-dyeing fabric. These techniques are highly skilled and have been refined since being brought from China in around the 7th century AD.
Shibori-style dyeing is used throughout Asia and in other parts of the world including Africa, Europe and America, but there is something about the subtlety and grace of Japanese tie-dyeing that makes it unique and special.
During the Heian period (794 to 1185) when Kyoto was Japan's capital, shibori was used in court dress which included 12 layers of kimono! Each layer was carefully chosen to complement the season and was dyed a subtlely different shade, with seasonal motifs. After this period shibori spread to the provinces where indigo was used to dye hemp and cotton clothing.
The most famous shibori-producing village is Arimatsu, founded in the 17th century between Kyoto and Edo (modern Tokyo). Arimatsu pioneered several techniques including using a hook to hold fabric while thread is wrapped around it, this is called kanoko (fawn spot) shibori.
Shibori is still produced in Kyoto and Arimatsu for high-end clients such as geisha and maiko (not only for kimono but maiko also wear a piece of kanoko shibori in their hair), but it is in serious danger of extinction. Artisans who have been producing shibori for generations are struggling to pass their skills on. Many shibori artists are in their 80s and 90s now because younger generations have chosen to pursue Western-style careers - they are no longer obliged to follow their family's profession.
Shibori is highly labour intensive for little financial reward - it takes 100,000 knots to produce enough kanoko shibori for a kimono!!! This is the main reason I'd like to share my knowledge of shibori with you.
Fortunately, people all over the world are now discovering the joy of shibori, and many people use simple techniques to produce silk scarves, clothing and handbags. With the prevailance of easy-to-use dyes it is possible to make beautiful shibori items quickly and easily once the basics have been mastered.
Katie Chaplin is a textile artist, teacher and lecturer on Japanese crafts. Her work includes paintings on silk, shibori wall hangings and recycled kimono jewellery and has been exhibited throughout the UK. Katie also teaches workshops on many Japanese paper and fabric crafts to Womens Institutes, Embroiderers Guilds, craft groups etc, and gives regular talks on kimono, tea ceremony, geisha and Japan. She sells Japanese craft supplies including her own exclusive range of kits through. |
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